I remember very little of my first visit to Paris. I was 12. I had gone there with my parents on a short weekend trip from London. We lived in a hotel on a road leading out from the Arc de Triomph and we ate mostly at Indian restaurants all through out the visit. We did the customary ride up the Eiffel tower but I don't remember the view from the top. I don't remember if we went to the Louvre or if we visited the Notre Dame Cathedral. But I do remember getting lost around the Arc de Triomph while trying to get back to our hotel and getting lots of unfriendly "No English!" responses when we asked around for directions. I also remember looking out from our hotel window and seeing a grey disorganised dreary city. Yes, I don't remember much but I do remember not liking Paris.And THAT is ironic, because I’ve fallen in love with Paris now. It’s hard not to. Paris is the kind of place where life comes vividly to bloom, where you walk out the door and fall in love, where you can't believe the exquisite beauty of the buildings, or the clouds, or the sun that shines after the rain. The city has an unassuming and intrinsic kind of beauty. The kind of beauty that comes from the understated little things- the lovely tree lined symmetrical roads, the cobble-stoned streets with quiet cafés at every corner, the smell of freshly baked croissants in the morning, beautiful French-windowed buildings everywhere. It’s almost as if Paris is saying “I know I’m beautiful, get over it!” while still feeling secretly proud and pleased that she has yet another admirer.
But I can hardly claim to know and understand Paris completely. Not in 10 days, perhaps not even in a lifetime. For Paris has a multiplicity of personalities- spiritual in the gothic serenity of Notre Dame, naughty in Pigalle’s red light bars, sophisticated in the unending galleries of the Louvre, bohemian in the art galleries of Marais, relaxed in the orderly flowers and trees of the Tulleries, business-like in the towering buildings of La Defense . For every chic expensive Gallic restaurant lining the Champs Elysees, there’s an affordable and exotic Asian, African, Middle Eastern or Franco-modern restaurant in Les Halles. And for every Jean Paul Gaultier, there’s a fledgling fashion student opening his first boutique. Paris is a melting pot of contradictions and differences and yet it all blends in beautifully.Of course I did not know all that, as I settled into a cramped little economy class seat late on a Friday night with only a tiny little bag, a rough guide to Paris, the memory of my previous visit and the willingness to give Paris another chance. I was headed to Paris and it would take me 13 long hours. With the clear knowledge that I would not last the 13-hr flight without any conversation, I turned to the cute-looking south-Asian guy sitting next to me. Surprise, Surprise! Plane-boy turned out to be French (well Cambodian but only by ancestry). I spent the next couple of hours chatting with him, polishing my French (Bonjour, Parle vous Anglais?), asking him all the things guide books don’t really tell u (How do you really pronounce Champs Elysees?), watching some ‘House’ and snoozing in fits and starts. By the time my plane landed, I had swapped addresses with plane-boy and made plans to probably catch up in Paris later. As I made my way to the hotel in a cab, my body completely time confused, I had my first glimpses of Paris- barely just waking up. And I knew I would love it.
My formal introduction to Paris was
unconventional. My first day there, I took a cycling tour of Paris. (Very highly recommended! The guy who took us around (Steven?) spoke fluent English, had really interesting and quirky bits of info on all the places and of course for me it was the perfect way to stave off the Jet lag while getting introduced to the city). And that’s when I discovered the first thing I like about Paris. It’s a very cycle-able city. In fact, the perfect way to see Paris, is atop a cycle- Just get a cycle from the ‘Velib’ stand, comfortable foot wear, something to help you brave the wind and you are set. The city is lined with cycle tracks and what’s better is that you find lots of fellow cyclists too.The other thing I loved about paris is how dog-friendly the city is. Owners take their dogs practically everywhere- Shops, cafes, restaurants, gardens. And the dogs are well-behaved too. For someone who has lived in dog-phobic Singapore for so many years, it was refreshing to see that kind of acceptance for the four-legged friend. It’s what convinced me that Paris has a heart unlike any other city. If I ever end up having a dog someday, I will live in Paris.
But the thing I loved doing the most in Paris was simply walking around till I got lost. Of course having an uncannily good sense of direction ensured that I was never really lost and that I always knew which way was home. But still, I played pretend. I wandered the streets of Paris with no destination in mind, taking turns as I fancied and letting Paris surprise me. And it never failed to. A beautiful square, a grand clock tower, a serene church, a quaint little shop- The streets of Paris always held some promise round the corner.Of course I did more than just walk when I was there. I climbed to the top of the Notre Dame cathedral (400 steps baby! And what a view it was!), Walked through the halls of the Louvre (till my feet were sore), Met Mona Lisa face to face (and found her totally unimpressive), sipped an over-priced cup of coffee on the Champs Elysees, climbed up to the Sacre Ceour, took in the sights and sounds of kitchsy Montmarte, and of course wined and dined like there was no tomorrow (and at times it almost felt like there wasn’t). This was, of course, apart from the usual Museum and tourist trail.
Paris was a treat to the senses and no words could even begin to describe it (And I just realised the futility of trying to). I've only just scratched the surface. But I will go back there. Perhaps even live there. Someday.
PS- So I did end up meeting plane-boy in Paris. He showed me around the St. Micheal area where he had studied. It was all really sweet and nice. But the thing I found the funniest- I am an Indian living in Singapore, he is a Cambodian who is French by birth, and the thing we connected most on, was American drama series. That’s globalization (or Americanization) for you!
Currently Reading: Kitchen Confidential- Anthony Bourdain
Currently Listening: Man who can’t be moved- The Script
PS- So I did end up meeting plane-boy in Paris. He showed me around the St. Micheal area where he had studied. It was all really sweet and nice. But the thing I found the funniest- I am an Indian living in Singapore, he is a Cambodian who is French by birth, and the thing we connected most on, was American drama series. That’s globalization (or Americanization) for you!
Currently Reading: Kitchen Confidential- Anthony Bourdain
Currently Listening: Man who can’t be moved- The Script
